Friday, August 29, 2014

Monday, August 25, 2014

The Thing Is, The Answer Will Come

I am not one for the rampant use or ownership of firearms. At least not the sort that could kill a crowd in a clip and quickly. But just now, as I sit waiting for my New York coals to burn drinking my New York rum concoction reading my New York memoir, I spot a drone buzzing overhead. I spy it as I hear it first as the worst sort of unnecessary mosquito. Oh that I had a high power'd rifle.

Other bits:

I left California at the wrong time.
On the gang plank, Wifey remarks upon seeing the empty poster frames, "Is it Green or Green."
Then on the street today, just outside the dog-run, "The problem isn't enough food in the world, it's that people eat too much of it."
And my own eight year old son, last night as we sauntered to pick up the grateful pup, (thankful for what I don't know), "I love New York."

Sunday, August 24, 2014

Friday, August 22, 2014

Notes On A Victory Lap Part II

I did two uncharacteristic things today that tell me perhaps my paternity-inspired vacation should be coming to an end:

1) Looking up from the book I am dutifully trudging through to a vision of inspiringly regular head high lines marching consequentially towards the beach, I smile, nod my approval and keep reading.

2) After couple chapters of said reading, I finally paddle out for the third time today with a leash on.

Weird things are afoot.
Tonight I head to Patagonia Cardiff to see the thing I missed the night I left New York.
See you there.

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

¡Get Small or Get Out!

Dan Malloy talks about Naomi's vision...

And our own documentation here...

Notes On A Victory Lap

There has been a two foot (ish)(+) swell running from the moment I stepped off the plane.
We drove straight up to the old stomping grounds in Santa Barbara for a professional fly through and some sentimental fever dreams of old sights.
We caught C Street small and fun twice, and had it not been for a sleeping infant, would have dipped our toes in the hallowed Queen's waters as well.
As it was we arrived back in North County to that same half-thump of body whomp material, the break in front of Red's going typically summer closeout.
The best part of the East Coast to West Coast binge banks on a three hour head start everyday. This has begun to wane after a week and a half, getting me up only an hour ahead of everyone else now, a scampering to the popular spots replacing my habitual laconic stroll of head nodding to all the old timers who begrudgingly accept my presence for a handful of days.
This morning, annoyingly late up, I found myself surrounded by a slightly younger crowd, but more importantly, an electric one as the lightning not only brought a rainbow off the reef, but bars of bolts on all sides.
Scampering in a different direction being de rigeur.

Highlight so far?
This moment of no swell surfing yesterday as my nieces got their first taste of the good life.

And Then There's This Classic Bit of Bad Vibes

Clic le Pic

Happening August 22nd 2014 : Surfy Art, Surfy Art

The Bakery Presents
Hang Ten Heat Wave
August 22–September 22, 2014
Opening Reception: Friday, August 22, 7–10pm
Hang Ten Heat Wave is a summer show of ten artists and designers whose work is 
driven by a desire to connect with nature. The contributors are based in New York 
and spend only a fraction of their time outside the city, causing their work to take on 
a romanticized and often fantastic interpretation of what lies beyond their immediate, 
urban surroundings.
In many ways New York City is an organism, constantly changing to adapt, but few 
would refer to its booming developments as natural. Even the untamed and overgrown 
spaces within the boroughs–landscaped parks restricted within the confines of the 
grid plan–turn out to be elegant hoaxes, self-aware illusions of nature. The city is so 
carefully planned that any ‘nature’ which develops within it’s limits, now or in the future, 
will be automatically subverted.
The artists and designers in Hang Ten Heat Wave join a lineage of New Yorkers who 
weave into their own urban existences a stylized version of the natural world: sunny days, 
lush forests, blue oceans and high-contrast deserts. And because they are removed from 
the harshness of these places, their work is an often playful representation of the New 
Yorker fantasy: to leave behind the city and try to reconnect with the elements of which 
they are continuously deprived.
The work represented in Hang Ten Heat Wave is pure summer vibes.

Auto Body Presents 
Groove Move 
This Friday August 22nd at 7pm 
A surf film by Jack Coleman, music by The Sweathogs and various Dj sets from some special guest will grace the airwaves. This is an all ages event.

Second House Museum Presents 
A Hundred Miles To The End 
"Join us this Friday evening for a charity event benefiting the Second House Museum in Montauk. The event features The Montauk Project, starting at 6 pm and two surf films one of which is "A Hundred Miles to The End" around 8 pm. There is a $10 donation/admission for the evening. All proceeds go to the museum."

The Parrish Museum Presents
Atlantic Vibrations Surf Movie Night Dos
August 22nd at 8 PM

The second installment of Atlantic Vibrations: Surf Movie Night, an outdoor screening of short, noncommercial surf movies made by filmmakers from Westhampton to Montauk and selected by film director Michael Halsband, artist Mike Solomon, and film curator Tyler Breuer. Created as a platform for emerging and established filmmakers, Atlantic Vibrations acknowledges the timeless connection between art, film, and surfing.
Bring lawn chairs and blankets for our first outdoor screening. The screening will take place on the Bonnie Comley and Stewart F. Lane Events Lawn. In the event of rain, this screening will take place indoors.


Monday, August 11, 2014


Gracias Bertha.

According to somebody, at some point, there are more than a handful of ways to skin a cat. In the case of quality summer surf sessions in New York, well, I suppose there are just as many permutations. In the past week we've been treated to nearly every single shade. I enjoyed only three (as work took me out of town as soon as the fun began) but they were three about as good as you (I) can get.

1. Tuesday The Fifth MidDay Slush Slop Session of Goodness : the wind turned, but it didn't matter.
2. Wednesday The Sixth Dawn Patrol Bertha Perfection : heaving, duck-in perfection.
3. Sunday The Tenth Family Morning Body Whomp and Soft Top Extravaganza : two kids, two dads, two soft tops and more fun than you can shake a stick at.

I'm not sure why I need to commemorate this week with such thin fanfare. I just don't have much to say other than true words of gigantic gratitude.

Next week we will pick up normal blog activity as we go Best Coasting. Stay tuned for tales of Pacific pride.

Happening: The Inner(Lost) Limits of Pure Fun at PataBowery

George Greenough found 20 minutes of lost footage and you haven't seen it yet. 
Here's you're chance.

Saturday, August 9, 2014

Happening : Today in Bellport

There's a new gig in town, or in some town, out there. The Autobody Gallery has opened up in Bellport and is instantly offering worthy go-looks.

"Auto Body is a creative platform and exhibition space in Bellport, New York. With each project we seek to use local influence as a vehicle to engage the community and showcase its surroundings."

Stop by today.

Friday, August 8, 2014

Happening : A Film For L'Est, Some Films for L'Ouest

August 16th will be an important date for New York surfy cinephiles.
For once you don't have to be bummed you're not in the right spot.


Lava Girl Surf, The women's surfing, education and events company, presents Women Of the Seven Seas, at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club on Saturday, August 16 (doors open at 7pm, films begin at twilight around 8:30pm)(Facebook Event Page )

The New York Women's Surf Film festival celebrates the filmmakers and female wave riders who live to surf, highlighting their sense of adventure, connection to the ocean and love for their own communities and those they discover. At Women of the Seven Seas here in Rockaway Beach, New York, we'll share the spirit and inspiration of the talk story of women wave riders from around the globe. 
We have a fantastic list of raffle prizes including a Surfboard by Natures Shapes, a Hand plane by Imaginary Surf Co. a signed print by Californian Photographer  Dylan Gordon,  gift certificates from Uma's Restaurant and Sayra's Wine Bar, and surf gear and apparel from Breakwater Surf Co. and many more other great designers and companies.   


The world premiere of Expencive Porno Movie a surf experimental film Featuring Dane Peterson, Kassia Meador, Alex Knost, JJ Wessels, Mike DeTemple, Trevor Gordon, Kyle Albers, Devon Howard, Justin Adams, Scotty Stopnik, and Jared Mell. Shot entirely on Super 16 mm film.

Follow Afterparty at LA BRISA

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Pinky On The Brain

More Notes on Surfing a Poo Board

Going left is a little more fun that going right actually.
As there is no real solid "control" so to speak, the added comfort of frontside surfing actually takes away from the helter skelter sloshy mania of backside desperation-sliding.
There is no long nose ride, no complete cutback, no knifing trim, no sexy bottom turn.
There is an arm pierce to rail yank to butt dangle to parallel stance to switch foot to half cross amble to sloppy cheater five back to regular stance to mush ball float turn arm extension quasimodo.
There is knee knocking and back bending, elbow jiggling and neck gyrating.
In a funny way, the whole experience eschews any sense of control other than whatever I can exert into the slim arena of staying slightly stylish during the most unstylish ride possible.
It has occurred to me that this whole thing might smack of the most boring kind of aggressively ironic screw-you posing, and maybe it is.
But it has also occurred to me that my favorite boards right now (the idiotic softtop and the irascible Vaquero) play by their own rules, rarely allowing me to dictate much in terms of trajectorious decision-making.
In this I find a little solace in fooling myself that as I grow older and wiser I just may be looking for novel ways to practice my new-found acceptance of an inevitable loss of control in all bits of my life.
Either way, I can only hope I look like I'm having as much fun as I'm actually having, a maneuver I find surfers often fail to master.